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Month: June 2017

Day 56 – Those CBAs

Day 56 – Those CBAs

Day 56 (26th Jun)

Distance 30 miles

Just a heads up I’m about to have a moan.

I was going to leave around noon today but Jesus it was too hot and I have a seriously debilitating case of the Can’t Be Arseds (CBAs). I sat in the air con all day and at 4pm finally got back on the bike.

The sun was hot, the wind was hot, the shade was hot, my water was hot and I was hot.

It was a long gradual uphill day as I followed the Salmon river upstream, and soon enough I pulled off at a rest stop for more water.

A bloke pulled over, walked casually over to the river and just got in it. I sat there watching with sweat running down my face and right that second I decided to get in as well. I walked over and got in fully clothed, it was so refreshing! I got out and back on the bike, within 10 minutes I was bone dry again.

The day got better and so did my mood, sometimes you just have to get on with it and stop sulking right. Some days can be tough but the feeling is temporary, tomorrow will be a better day.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 55 – Is that on warranty?

Day 55 – Is that on warranty?

Day 55 (25th Jun)

Distance 43 miles

Another leisurely start this morning after getting bananas and water loaded onto the bike.

Before the main climb of the day I came across a lad pushing a buggy full of gear, he was walking across America for charity!

The funniest part of this is that he bought a new stroller from a shop and it had a warranty, so once he reached a town where his buggy was beat up he exchanged it for a brand new one haha! Logan all the best mate, you clever sod you!

I got the climb out of the way slowly but surely, it’s was another day in the mid 80’s and I can’t hack it. You might be thinking “he was moaning about the rain and the cold last week!?”, but I’m British so it’s my God given right to moan about the weather.

I had a steady stream of sweat flowing down my face and by the end of the day my face was covered in crystallised salt.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 54 – Dan Vs Food

Day 54 – Dan Vs Food

Day 54 (24th Jun)

Distance 41.6 miles

After a strong 10 hour sleep I woke up to clear blue skies. Before I checked out I got on the wifi outside the restaurant and the woman popped out and told me to come in for a drink before I left. I had a Coke and they didn’t charge me which was lovely of them. They even put ice in my water bottles so it was the best campsite I’ve been to in forever.

I left late morning and made it to a town called Kooskia on the Nez Perce Reservation. I had trouble finding the café so asked a lady who was out the front of her house. She came over to the gate and told me how to get there. She was listening to The BBC on her phone so we joked how a British presenter had appeared before her eyes, I knew I had a newsreader accent.

She invited me in for a cold drink which I greatly appreciated as my iced water bottles were already warm. Thank you Beth!

Next stop was the café and for the first time on this trip I over did it on the food. I ordered two burger and chip meals and they were BIG portions. I ate them both and was loving it, my error was getting on the bike immediately after.

Straight away I had a 2,000ft climb in 90 degrees Fahrenheit heat. About halfway up I was in a bad way. Each burp had a rumble of sick in it, I was getting stomach pains and I was so full I couldn’t take deep breaths, like there wasn’t space for air in my body haha. I had $20 of food in my belly so it would have been a real shame to chuck it up.

The feeling lasted for the rest of the climb and across the prairies until I made it to Grangeville Idaho. Once I got into town I got a slush puppy to cool my belly down and it was like medicine.

I learnt a lesson today, no Man Vs Food straight before a hot climb because you will hit a wall.

Jheeze it’s 8pm and I could do with another burger.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 53 – Butterfly Ganglands

Day 53 – Butterfly Ganglands

Day 53 (23rd Jun)

Distance 72.5 miles

Unbeknownst to me I had 70 miles of no services to do today, whaaaaaa I wanted to take it easy!

I got a few more snacks and headed off. It was the most beautiful ride along the Lochsa river and I was surrounded by towering fir trees on all sides.

Along the whole route there were swarms of butterflies and they were fearless honestly. At first I thought it was random but no, these butterflies were going out of their way to crash into my face. I’m ashamed to admit it but one butterfly ran me off the road. I moved my head to avoid his kamikaze attempt and is I did I lost my balance, next thing I knew I was exiting the road off the lip of the hard shoulder.

These butterflies were menacing, they hung about in gangs around pools of water and I even saw them banging in the middle of the road. I was shocked and appalled.

Apart from that I landed in a shit town with one bad restaurant, one bad waitress and no camping. I cycled another further 7 miles and was back in the land of good.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 52 – Bear Fun

Day 52 – Bear Fun

Day 52 (22nd Jun)

Okay I officially left Missoula!

I can safely say it’s another town I’ve left a bit of my heart in, but the mission is the Pacific coast and the show must go on.

I had the maddest headwinds today, they drive me up the wall no matter how hard I try to let them travel through me.

In the Chinese buffet I read a quote… ”In the rain, be in the rain. In the wind, be in the wind”. I thought it would make the perfect Instagram caption, however I disagree with it. It should read “in the rain, get out of the rain. In the wind, get out of the wind”.

After the frustration of the wind I was about to experience even more frustration with a mix of fear. As I cycled around a corner I got my first encounter with a black bear! He came out of the tree line right next to the road about 10 metres in front of me and as he did a motorcycle was coming and he ran from the noise down the verge on the other side of the road.

People here say you should act differently when confronted by black bears compared to grizzly bears. With a grizzly you’re best off playing dead and hoping it gets bored, on the other hand with a black bear you best be ready to fight as those things want to kill you.

As soon as I saw him I shouted “fuck off bear!” In a bid to scare him. Once he ran off I still thought he may turn around to investigate me, I had fresh deli food on my bike and if I was a bear I know I’d want it.

The frustration arose when I went for my bear spray, in Missoula I was like I haven’t seen a bear this whole time I’m packing this away. Sod’s law as soon as I packed it I came across one the same day.

I started tipping out my panniers like a mad man to find the spray and was just waiting to see that bear come back over the verge!

He never did come back so I repacked the contents of my panniers which were now all over the hard shoulder. I cycled another 10 miles to a restaurant where I had a big icy glass of Coke. When I walked in a woman said “wow you cycle fast, we saw you earlier.”. I said “yeah I saw a bear so I sped up.” She then told me that she saw him too and it turns out that she was on the motorbike that scared him off!

It was banter but I can’t believe they didn’t stop to see if I made it through okay!

I made it up Lolo pass, entered Idaho and entered a new time zone. Triple whammy!

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 51 – Whoops another rest day!

Day 51 – Whoops another rest day!

Day 51 (21st Jun)

Oh I accidentally stayed another day in Missoula!

It was a great day so no regrets, myself and my new friend Maggie, who was also staying in the hostel decided to get food and visit one of the breweries.

We then went to another cool place and I wanted more food, they served Cajun food so I tried my first ever Gumbo and Jumbolaya which were so nice!

Jeeze even on a Tuesday night the atmosphere was so good, this town is decentttttt!

I promise to get back on the bike tomorrow.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 50 – I did my first desk pop!

Day 50 – I did my first desk pop!

Day 50 (20th Jun)

Shots fired!

True to their words the old bill picked me up and we went to the range.

Chris had the baddest guns I’ve ever seen and they were straight out of call of duty. Have a look on my Instagram page for videos of me “emptying clips”.

I looked a bit out of place in my cycling gear but I did take my helmet off for the occasion.

After an afternoon of being a true American Christ treated me to a Chinese buffet. I had a brilliant day cheers mate, I may carry a piece when I’m back in the uk now lolz.

Another example of my luck in bumping into the nicest people!

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 49 – And Breathe…

Day 49 – And Breathe…

Day 49 (19th Jun)

Last night I met two off duty coppers in a bar, it was a hilarious night and they wouldn’t let me pay for a single drink. They offered to take me shooting on Monday and I really hope it happens, shooting guns is so American damnit!

I ate lunch in a Vietnamese restaurant which made me want to visit Vietnam and then I wandered around town.

I heard about a bar that had 50 beers on tap so strolled over there to have a look. I ordered a drink and a bloke heard my accent so came over. I was chatting to him for a while and then I noticed his tattoos…swastikas and general Aryan race themes, oh great in such a nice town I meet the one nazi. He also had a front tooth missing which was kicked out during a fight on a reservation.

I managed to slip away and took a walk down to a place with live music. When I sat down outside the waiter walked over and said that a drink had been bought for me and pointed over to the buyer, it was the bloke that owns the hostel I’m staying in. Cheers Chris mate!

Today was so relaxed and there is something I really love about Missoula, Montana.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 48 – Lucky Launderette

Day 48 – Lucky Launderette

Day 48 (18th June)

Jesus I slept 2 hours last night and woke up wet, cold and stressed.

I went to withdraw cash last night before bed and it turns out that the prepaid card was empty lolz. Then I got locked out of online banking and then I couldn’t phone them as it was out of office hours. It’s all resolved now but I was so aggy as I had about 3 dollars on me.

At 5am I got up and headed back to McDonald’s for a coffee, as I cycled there a sprinkler came up out of the ground and sprayed me with a fresh coating of cold water, I had to laugh because that was just fucking typical haha.

I managed to check into the hostel and went to the launderette to wash my clothes properly for the first time on the trip, before then I was using shampoo in hotel sinks. In the launderette a man came over to chat and it turns out him and his wife are touring as well! They invited me out for dinner and I accepted gratefully. Whilst my gear dried I went for a haircut and got food. The girl working at the launderette helped me and didn’t even charge me, so I bought her some flowers.

I had dinner with with Nolan and Ileana and we shared tales from the road. They actually spent years in the UK through Nolan’s military service, and that’s how they clocked I was British and not Australian back at the launderette. On a side note 95% of people I chat to guess I’m Australian.

The good fortune continues and I’m a firm believer in synchronicity now.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 47 – Towns are like Toilets

Day 47 – Towns are like Toilets

Day 47 (17th June)

Distance 87.68 miles

Average 11.8mph

Total pedal time 7 hrs 22 mins

Being the honest John that I am I went to the camp reception this morning to let them know I pitched up late last night. As as I wasn’t even able to get into the toilets for a Brad Pitt I half expected a reduced rate…she charged me the full $18 for my 10 hours there, haha cheers then!

I wanted to make it to Missoula today which was another 80 miles away, but after a 100 mile day I now looked at 80 as a stroll in the park.

There were 5 towns on the journey which is unheard of as I’m normally in the arse end of nowhere, I ate in each one as it’s just a habit to stop in civilisation now. A town is definitely like a toilet, don’t pass one without using it, you never know when you’re going to come across one again.

One town before Missoula was Lolo and I considered camping here, however I didn’t like the place so around 11pm I headed off on the 7 mile cycle path to Missoula. I planned on finding somewhere hidden to get some sleep and check into the hostel early the next morning.

I wanted a hot drink before bed so went through the McDonald’s drive through. The woman on the speaker asked if I was on a bicycle so I said yeah I was. She said she wasn’t allowed to serve people on foot through the drive through so I assured her I would pedal up to each window, didn’t even chuckle did she.

I found a hidden spot but couldn’t set the tent up there so I used the sheet from my tent as a waterproof blanket, it stopped the rain but I got drenched in condensation anyway. I’m feeling drained right now so I’m calling a break in play and taking a few days in the hostel to recharge. I need to wash my clothes, dry my tent and get out of this constant rain.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 46 – Centurion

Day 46 – Centurion

Day 46 (16th June)

Distance 104.99 miles

Average 9.8 mph

Total pedal time 10 hrs 38 mins

They said man couldn’t run a mile in 4 minutes, but man did it anyway.

They said Dan couldn’t cycle 100 miles in one day, but Dan did it anyway!

Perhaps that’s a bit dramatic but I’m over the moon about getting 100 miles in one day! Jeeze it took me over 10 hours of pedalling and I hit 3 passes during the day, but I was bionic.

After 99.8 miles I made it to a campsite but there was no way I was stopping before 100 miles. I even contemplated doing a few laps of the campsite to push me over the mark but naaaaaaaaaah next campsite let’s go.

I made it to camp at 10pm and the whole place was shut. I set the tent up in the rain and went to sleep wet as the toilet/shower needed a code to access which I didn’t have.

Dillon Montana to Sula Montana, 15th June 2017, this should be a national holiday TBH.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 45 – McLovin’ It

Day 45 – McLovin’ It

Day 45 (15th June)

Distance 37.5 miles

I set off for a day of headwinds today.

The more fellow cyclists I meet the more I’m told that you shouldn’t fight headwinds, you should just go with them. The problem is that they piss me off properly! If you go slow and struggle all day going up a hill at least you get the reward of being at the top of a hill. If you spend all day going slow and struggling against a headwind then there is no tangible reward, you’re being robbed!

Around lunch time I met two 60 year young blokes who were going west to east, 37 years ago they went east to west together, that is friendship levels!

I finished the day early as I just couldn’t be arsed for the two climbs to the next camp.

I sat in McDonalds all evening on $1 coffee and free wifi. A transam racer arrived and sat with me and we chatted, he’s hoping to cycle the whole route in less than 30 days. For me personally the best part of the journey is the bit when I get off the bike, so to do the whole thing strapped to the bike is a bit leave it, but these racers have a different mindset!

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 44 – Fanks Sheridan

Day 44 – Fanks Sheridan

Day 44 (14th June)

Day 44 was a hideaway from the storm day as I didn’t want a repeat of yesterday no ma’am.

I woke up and checked out as wanted to camp instead for the night. I went for coffee and wifi and met a couple of people from last night. We ate lunch then a girl called Kimberly organised a trip with her friends to see the views up in the mountains.

When we got back I was ready to set up my tent when Kimberly and her Dad invited me to stay in their camper round the back of their house. I said yes immediately as I fancied an inflatable bed over my roll mat, her Dad Dan even turned on the heating for me!

Two days in Sheridan Montana and everyone I’ve met has been so kind to me, I’m glad the storm turned up yesterday otherwise I would have cycled straight through!

Serendipity at its finest.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 43 – Just Another Manic Monday

Day 43 – Just Another Manic Monday

Day 43 (June 13th)

Distance 32 miles

I slept so well and in the morning drank coffee and chatted with Amalia and her friends.

Amalia was heading out and her passing gift was an actual headlamp! I tried to make her keep it but I’m the end she won and I’m now the owner of a purpose builder head torch. Thank you for everything Amalia!

I set off and climbed the 2,000ft in a few hours, once I made it to the top I took a break to enjoy the views and the satisfying feeling of having pedalled up there.

The journey continued and to my west dark, dark clouds were coming my way.

1 hour later and I’m now in the worst storm I’ve ever been outside in. It started with sideways rain and wind with rumbling thunder. Next was large hail that hurt my face and hands and the cherry on the cake was lighting touching down all around me.

I was around 10 miles away from Sheridan and it was that familiar feeling of panic I had at that mountain pass a few weeks ago.

I had no choice but to keep going forward and the bolts of lighting were flashing up all around me. The thunder was cracking as soon as each bolt touched down, I was just waiting for one to come down through my helmet.

I made it into the town and the roads were flooded. I just needed to get inside so went to the first shop I saw. The staff in there looked at me and started laughing because I was in a right two and eight. They gave me a free coffee and told me about a motel across the road.

I checked in and had a 1 hour sit down shower, it could have been a music video for a sad song I reckon, perhaps Cry Me A River with Timberlake.

After that I slept a few hours (see this ordeal wiped me out!).

I woke up and went down to the restaurant, where I bumped into Tina from the store. She gave me an American flag that had been signed by everyone at the store which was so nice, I think they felt empathy after seeing me roll into town like that. I just continue meeting the best of every town I arrive in, thank you!

I just ordered food and it turns out Tina put money behind the bar to cover it. Tinaaaaaaaa!?

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 42 – Nobody Cycles on a Sunday

Day 42 – Nobody Cycles on a Sunday

Day 42 (June 12th)

Today is Sunday and I decided to have a lay in. There was live music in the distillery so I packed my tent up and popped inside to have a look.

The next 10 miles of my journey will see me climb 2,000ft in elevation, so I’m finding it to easy to find excuses not to go climb.

I left the distillery and went into a local bar, I needed to catch up on typing the journal but I also love sitting in small bars.

Soon enough I was in with the group and the beers were flowing! They were a brilliant bunch and even the County Commissioner was present. He offered to give me a lift up the hill but I politely declined.

We popped to the next bar and I got chatting to the girls working there. I intended to cycle up the hill in the cool of the night after sobering up, so a girl called Amalia kindly taped my torch to my helmet.

After my new torch helmet was complete I was ready to go however Amalia warned me about a storm coming in which put me right off as I’ve already experienced first hand what it’s like to be caught in a storm on a bike.

She said I could stay on her sofa to wait out the storm and head off in the morning, thank you Amalia!

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 41 – Cheers Jay!

Day 41 – Cheers Jay!

Day 41 (11th June)

Distance 74.1 miles

Last night we were watching the NBA game in a bar and it was pissing it down outside. I was hoping it would stop so I could cycle to the next camp but it continued.

It’s so hard leaving a bar in normal circumstances, it’s even harder when you are leaving a bar to face the rain, the dark and the cold.

I got chatting to a bloke at the bar who earlier had picked up Jess’s bike after it fell outside the bar. Jay and his son were stopping over in west Yellowstone and in keeping with the way the universe works for me, Jay cycled across America back in the 70’s haha.

We all traded stories and it was so good to hear about how the journey changed Jay and what it taught him about himself.

After the game had finished I started revving myself up to go out into the rain. Jess was doing the same but then Jay offered us a place to stay at his condo, God send!!

We took our bikes to his place, I had a hot shower and slept in a warm building whilst the rain turned to hail outside.

Today I made it to a town called Ennis and set my tent up in the garden of a distillery, the Bourbon was decent and warmed me up lovely.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 40 – Synchronicity

Day 40 – Synchronicity

Day 40 (June 10th)

 

By the time I set up camp another cyclist pulled up which was a welcome sight.

Her name was Jess and she was an actual solo female rider going coast to coast, these independent girls!

We chatted all night about our travels and in the background the coyotes were howling.

I went to sleep and didn’t wake up until 8am at which point Jess was already up. I got out of my tent and collected my free coffee from the reception.

Jess is from San Francisco and her NBA team were playing so in an act of madness she decided to cycle back on herself (she’s going west to east, opposite to me) to west Yellowstone to watch the game in a bar. It was a short day of 15 miles to West Yellowstone and the rain was coming in.

Oi btw I I wanted to tell you something I didn’t mention yesterday. My friend Goat told me the funniest story when I bumped into him yesterday.

That muesli he gave me I took to the other side of Togwotee Pass at which point I bumped into a Canadian lad who was travelling on a single speed, bonkers.

I now had a surplus of food so gave this lad some Muesli and he went on his way.

Two days later I bumped into Goat as I said before, and Goat told me he met a Canadian, and that the Canadian offered him food that he got from a British Man……….SAME FUCKING MUESLI! Hahahahahah

The world is the funniest place.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 39 – From Bison to Bye Son – Almost

Day 39 – From Bison to Bye Son – Almost

Day 39 (9th June)

 

Distance 79.1 miles

Top Speed 45.6 mph (I like to go fast – Ricky Bobby)

A lot happened today so be prepared for a big post.

I set off a little late as I wanted more potato salad from the shop. I was on the road by 11:30am and planned to do 50 miles to the next camp.

At 5pm I made it to the site and headed straight for food. I ordered a plate of chips, ate them, ordered another plate of chips, ate them, and ordered a third plate of chips and ate them. The woman at the till was loving it, she even gave me a free ranch dressing.

After I could eat no more chips I went to the camp reception to check in but it turns out the site isn’t open for the season yet, disaster!

They were really helpful however, they phoned the next campsite down the road and confirmed that they were open and that they had room for me. Now I needed to cycle a further through Yellowstone to make it to the camp.

I was advised not to travel at night as that’s when the big animals start wandering about onto the roads. By the time I set off again it was 6pm, sunset is at 9:30pm and I had 30 miles to cover, shitty Norah I don’t like this pressure.

My legs were already losing power and now I had some hefty climbing and a time limit before sundown. I was sweating my box off and got through my water soon enough.

My route went past Old Faithful so I stopped to take a look. It goes off every 90 minutes and I was just in time. Saw that go off up into the air then set off straight away.

Now the sun was setting over the mountains and I made it to a massive open flat land where some cars were pulled over. Cars pulled over typically means an animal sighting so I approached with caution. Once I got there I saw a lone wolf walking across the flat land with the sun setting behind it…unbelievable.

I continued my time trial and it was now dusk, so I put the hi viz on and fired up the back light on my bike.

Soon enough I was at a massive car queue, Christ I’m running out of daylight hours so I headed to the front.

Once at the front I saw what the hold up was, a herd of Bison! I queued for about 30 minutes with a swarm of mosquitos so I was like fuck this. A car window rolled down and the people inside gave me repellent which was so nice.

Three cars off the front another window rolled down. The bloke inside offered to be my car shield to make it through the herd and I agreed, soon enough we were now at the front of the queue.

The Bison were trotting and the ranger truck managed to get all of them on the left hand side of the road so our gap appeared.

We started our advance but at the last minute a large male swung right with some other bison following him. Within seconds I was now smack bang in the middle of the herd. The situation was now out of control and I couldn’t go back as there were Bison behind me, at this point I really regretted trying to get through.

The Bison were now running next to me and I could have reached out and touched one of their massive heads, I’m just waiting to be smashed against the car by one.

A miracle happened and the Bison split so a gap appeared, the bloke shouted to pedal and I shiffffffffffffted to keep up with him and we were through!

We were cheering and he honked his horn, the adrenaline was pumping through me massively. I made it to the camp and although I was relieved I was also annoyed that I put myself in that situation. Even the ranger pulled over at the campsite and told me I was lucky.

Dan don’t be a donkey!

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 38 – Goat Encounters

Day 38 – Goat Encounters

Day 38 (8th June)

Distance 26 miles

Due to the distance between open camps I decided to take a shorter day today, I don’t want to be wild camping in the national parks.

I made it to the camp around 1pm and headed for food. At the camp grocery store I found loaded jacket potatoes and potato salad. I ate sooooo much potato.

Next stop was wifi so I went to the restaurant. It was closed but the lobby was open so I looked through the window to see how to get in. I saw a familiar face in there, it was Goat! He hitchhiked a lift and was camping there as well. That’s 3 times in 3 days bumping into this legend!

So far he hasn’t had to use the rape alarm I gave him so that’s good news.

I relaxed for the rest of the day and caught some beautiful scenes in the National Park.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 37 – Breakfast and Rape Alarms

Day 37 – Breakfast and Rape Alarms

Day 37 (7th June)

Distance 49 miles

My new friend Goat already set off by the time I woke up.

The lady working in the church had cooked me breakfast even though I hadn’t yet met her which was kind! The note said “For you, Mr Boyle. Enjoy.” And I did enjoy it!

At 2pm I set off which is later than I probably should have as I needed to climb to 9,658ft from 7,000ft in Grizzly Bear country.

Before the climb I pulled over at the last shop and sat outside the front was my friend Goat! He was waiting for a food package his girlfriend sent to a post office nearby. I sat down and had a late lunch with him and when his care package arrived I started laughing at the quantity of food inside.

He had wayyyyyy too much to carry so gave me some which was decent of him.

I knew his journey on the back country trails would be more dangerous than mine on the roads so I gave him an item that was previously given to me in Guffey, Colorado… a rape alarm haha! I’m not even sure it would scare a bear away but perhaps it would alert others to help. I hope it wouldn’t make them any madder at least.

The climb to the pass was one of the best I’ve had. The adrenaline from my bearophobia and the 5 hour energy shot I had meant I flew up the mountain.

Every couple of minutes I would shout out something in a bid to clear the way of bears, I think it must have worked as I didn’t see a single bear!

I made it down the other side just before nightfall and loaded my scented possessions into the bear box, I tried to fit in it myself however no luck.

I don’t like being in a tent when there are monsters around so I unrolled my roll mat and slept under the stars with full visibility under the bright moon.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 36 – Bear Convos

Day 36 – Bear Convos

Day 36 (6th June)

Distance 77.08 miles

After the best weekend it was already Monday morning so I got back to cycling ready to make some ground.

I made it through the Wind River Indian Reservation today which was a first for me.

Last night I met a native couple and they showed me some videos of traditional celebrations which were incredible, then the bloke showed me a video of a cyclist being chased by a bear. I asked if bear spray would work and he said the only chance I would have is if I put a bullet in the bear’s head. Don’t even think that was banter but sound advice regardless of the fact that I don’t have a gun lol.

I made it to Dubois and to the cowboy café where I ordered 3 plates of food.

After dinner I went to the church dorm which was soooooo nice, there were two others already there, a cyclist and a hiker.

The Hiker was called Goat (his hiking name from enjoying climbing mountains lol) and for the last 1,000 miles had been hiking in the snow. We exchanged bear stories as were both petrified of coming across them in the next part of our journeys.

His final story was about a missing hiker in the area last year. They found his remains after a bear got him and all of the remains fitted into a bucket, the bear ate the rest.

Goat won the bear story competition and I went to bed with the image of the bucket in my head.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Days 34 / 35 – Lander the Free

Days 34 / 35 – Lander the Free

Days 34 & 35 (4th / 5th June)

So after I wrote up yesterday’s post I bunched into a group of people in the city park.

They were having a party and kindly offered me a drink which was great as I was getting bored laying in the sun.

The afternoon was loads of fun, I got to play an American game called Corn Holes, I got to taste White Claws and finally I got to see a live band play at the local bar.

Lander is one of those places where people visit once then eventually their paths cross again with the town. I can see how it happens, 330 days of sunshine, friendly people and no rat race. Maybe I will be a Lander resident in the future haha!

A girl called Ariel (who is one day older than me?!) even gifted me her bear spray for the next part of my journey, that is love right there!

To top off my weekend in Lander I got an invite back for 4th July which is meant to be unreal in Lander, I just hope it’s not a trick so they can hang a British lad to celebrate America’s independence. Anyway it’s a risk I’m willing to take!

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 33 – Pamper Time

Day 33 – Pamper Time

Day 33 (3rd June)

Today was a pamper day for my bike.

There’s a decent bike shop in Lander and my rear tyre was down to the bone. I got a new touring tyre and it turns out the chain was looking too good neither. A new chain was $15 so rather than bolloxing my drive train I splashed out.

After this I sat in a coffee shop for 3 hours getting wifi and charging electronics.

Tomorrow is a 70 mile day through an Indian reservation so for the rest of today I’m laying in the sun.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 32 – Crikey a Rattler!

Day 32 – Crikey a Rattler!

Day 32 (Jun 2nd)

Distance 60.19 miles

Today is the second and final day up in the 130 mile dead zone.

I set off after a double chilli burger at 9am. The locals were up and already boozing, or maybe they just never went to bed.

I got pedalling through the barren landscape and was complaining to myself about the headwinds that had returned.

I was on autopilot daydreaming about having an engine but 1 hour in I was rudely brought back to reality. I heard a loud rattle and I looked down to see what it was, jeepers it was a coiled rattlesnake!! By the time I heard it I was already on top of it and I swerved missing it by much less than a foot!

It’s ironic that after the bloke in Rawlins told me about cyclists swerving into the road I did the exact same thing, luckily there were no trucks to run me over.

Thank god the “rattler” didn’t strike my leg. Those things have the worst venom and I was a whole day away from the next town, I would have definitely been brown bread. Damn I was so close to this snake and I clearly upset him!

I got off the bike and was full of adrenaline, I paced up and down for 5 minutes saying things like “ohhhhh fuck me” and then I got the camera out to document my encounter. The way it moved made me shiver, I guess we are evolved to be petrified of snakes.

For the rest of the day I panicked over any snake shape objects on the hard shoulder. The worst thing was seeing a sand coloured bungee cable as they are the most snake looking things.

After a lunch break I had calmed down but before the sun set I had an identical encounter with an even longer/fatter rattle snake!!

My nerves are now in tatters and I need to find somewhere that doesn’t have snakes. I finally made it to the end of the dead zone and didn’t die, oioi!

I set the tent up and checked three times that the door zip was done up fully, no snake sized gap.

Another day another dollar.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 31 – The Hills Have Eyes

Day 31 – The Hills Have Eyes

Day 31 (June 1st)

Distance 72 miles

I woke up to blue skies and a free coffee from the campsite office.

I told the girl working there where I was headed and she said “ohhhh, you’re going through the dead zone”.

I asked her what she meant and she told me there was just about no civilisation for the next 130 miles. Oh great fanx.

With that in mind I stocked up in Rawlins. The bloke in the petrol station was also a delight to talk to. He informed me that cyclists have died on this stretch of road as they have seen rattle snakes last minute and swerved out into the road to dodge them and have been flattened by the big fuel trucks that hurtle down the road. Oh great fanx.

With all of this fresh on my mind I set off for the apparent gauntlet.

The day was a success, no “rattlers” and I’m alive 70 miles later I made it to an outpost called Jeffrey City.

The “city” used to be booming in the 80’s when they discovered Uranium and began mining. The city never slept as 5,000 miners worked in 3 shifts over a 24 hour period so apparently the 3 bars in town were always buzzing.

Fast forward to today and the town has a population of 41 and there is just one bar open along with a church.

Signs of the past remain with an abandoned ghost town including a grocery store, miners accommodation, and even a bowling alley. Everywhere is boarded up now and the place is so eerie.

Those that remain there struggle with a 120 mile round trip to go food shopping, and every summer there are swarms of mosquitos making it too uncomfortable to be outside.

I stayed in the church which was heaven sent as the Mosquitos were out of control. Luckily there were 4 other cyclists heading east so I had company for the night.

Went for breakfast in the bar and at around 9am the locals were getting back on it, or maybe they never got off it last night?

A uranium mining town that was a mixture of The Hills Have Eyes and I Am Legend (I’m Will Smith obvs).

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 30 – Hurdles of life

Day 30 – Hurdles of life

Day 30 (May 31st)

Distance 65.44 miles

I set off around 9:30am this morning. I can now confirm with absolute certainty that I’m solar powered. I cannot physically get out of bed until the sun has heated my tent up. Either that or I’m just cold blooded, depends who you ask lolz.

There were no pesky headwinds today so I was bang bang on the pedals. I could have gone even further but found a decent campsite so pulled over.

The original campsite I checked out wanted $32 plus tax so I was like nah. The woman told me there was another site down the road I was on so I took her word for it. Turns out it was on the next exit of the interstate.

This left me with two options:

1) Go back on myself to get back on the main road and to the next exit.

2) Get myself and my bike over a barbed wire fence and through a field.

I chose option 2, making sure not to catch any hanging fruit as I jumped over.

I kind of think the woman knew she gave me the wrong directions, but no harm as I do hurdles for breakfast.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 29 – all you can eat

Day 29 – all you can eat

Day 29 (May 30th)

I set my tent up beneath a wind chime so woke up in a trance/meditative state.

Today is Memorial Day in the states remembering those who have served the nation I believe. What it also meant was a $5 all you can eat BBQ across the road, OohRah! I lost count of how many hotdogs and burgers I had.

There was also live music and I got to hear Ring of Fire, so in summary it was a very American day!

An early start tomorrow so I’m tucked up in bed. The roll mat is dreamy.

Yours in cycling,

Dan

Day 28 – as luck would have it

Day 28 – as luck would have it

Day 28 (May 29th)

Distance 49.59 miles

Before bed last night I found a Family Dollar store so popped inside. After the ordeal up in the mountains I wanted to treat myself for not dying (such a diva).

I found a doormat in the home section and it looked so comfy so I bought it. I also bought some bin bags to keep my mat dry on the bike.

I made it into Wyoming today and to a town called riverside with a population of 52. I found the best campsite and got chatting to the owner about my brand new purchase. I got the doormat out to show her and it turns out she uses the EXACT same mats in the women’s showers!? Not only that, a camper left a roll mat behind earlier in the week so we made a trade.

My luck will just not stop, after 4 weeks I have a roll mat again!

Perfect negotiation as we both won.

Yours in cycling,

Dan